U5 Study Guide

What are the four main components of a wave?

• Crest, trough, wavelength, and period

• Crest, trough, wave height, and wavelength

• Height, depth, length, and frequency

• Peak, valley, amplitude, and width

Which factors affect wave size?

• Wind speed, wind duration, fetch, and wave period

• Temperature, salinity, depth, and pressure

• Tides, currents, moon phase, and season

• Water density, air pressure, temperature, and wind direction

What are the three types of wind-generated waves?

• Capillary waves, swells, and tsunami waves

• Breaking waves, standing waves, and internal waves

• Capillary waves, wind waves, and swells

• Rogue waves, tidal waves, and storm surges

Which type of breaker forms over a gradual slope with foam gently breaking down the wave face?

• Plunging breaker

• Spilling breaker

• Surging breaker

• Standing breaker

What type of waves are most suitable for professional surfers?

• Spilling waves

• Surging waves

• Plunging waves

• Standing waves

How high above sea level would an 8-foot swell reach?

• 8 feet

• 4 feet

• 2 feet

• 16 feet

What has the greatest influence on Earth's tides?

• The Sun

• The Moon

• Wind patterns

• Ocean currents

What type of tides have two high tides and two low tides each day?

• Diurnal tides

• Mixed tides

• Semi-diurnal tides

• Spring tides

When do spring tides occur?

• During the first quarter moon

• During the last quarter moon

• When the Sun, Moon, and Earth are aligned

• When the Moon is perpendicular to the Sun-Earth line

What percentage of ocean currents are deep water currents?

• 10%

• 50%

• 75%

• 90%