ES - Chapter 13

Rolling waves with a large horizontal distance between crest have a long:

• wave height

• wavelength

• frequency

• trough

Groins and built to reduce the effect of:

• tsunamis

• longshore drift

• rip currents

• deep currents

At the full moon, the combined gravitational pulls of the sun and moon produce the biggest difference between low and high tide, are called

• surface current

• neap tide

• spring tide

• rip current

Ocean water is more dense than fresh water at the same temperature because of:

• pressure

• the Coriolis Effect

• upwelling

• salinity

Winds and currents move in curved paths because of:

• the Coriolis effect

• longshore drife

• wave height

• tides

Cold and warm ocean water is carried around the world by:

• spring tides

• neap tides

• cuurents

• tsunamis

What factors influence the size of waves?

• strength, duration, and distance of wind

• duration of wind and surface area of the water

• surface area of the water, currents, and tides

• currents, low tide and high tide

Why does the height of a wave change as it approaches shore? (Choose all correct answers)

• Friction causes the wave to slow down

• Decreased speed causes the increase in height

• Height decreases as the wavelength decreases

• Shallow water creates more friction

• Rig currents pull waves up

Warm water currents influence climate by making the climate: (Choose all of the correct answers)

• wet

• warm

• dry

• cold

Which of the following are caused by winds? (Choose all of the correct answers)

• waves

• tides

• surface currents

• deep currents

• upwelling