QUIZ 4

Long wave is “long” in terms of:

• Wave period

• Wave length

• Both

• Neither

Deep water wave is deep in terms of:

• Water depth d

• Wave length L

• Both

• Neither

Deep and shallow water wave celerity is governed by ___ & ___ respectively.

• water depth, wave period

• wave period, water depth

• water depth, water depth

• wave period, wave period

The following is FALSE about wave celerity C and wave group celerity C_g:

• C_g/C = n

• C in deep water is 0.5C_g

• C = C_g in shallow water

In breaking wave, the water particle velocity u and wave celerity C can be related by:

• u > C

• u = C

• u < C

The followinbg is FALSE about hydrodynamic wave pressure:

• It is usually larger than hydrostatic pressure

• It is only significant near the water surface

• It fluctuates between positive and negative pressure

• It causes total pressure to be more and less than the hydrostatic pressure

As deep water wave propagates shoreward, the following is FALSE:

• Wave length reduces

• Wave height increases

• Wave celerity increases

• Wave period is unchanged

Wave steepness is defined in terms of:

• Wave height & wave length

• Wave height & water depth

• Wave height and wave period

• Wave frequency and wave number

Wave refraction is attributed to the effect of:

• Wave incidence only

• Water depth only

• Water depth and wave incidence

• Wave incidence and presence of structure

The following if FALSE about wave diffraction:

• It occurs due to truncation of wave front

• It occurs due to lateral transfer of energy

• It occurs due to water depth changes

• It occurs due to obstruction in the path of wave propagation