A Level Coastal Landscapes #2

Weathering is the...

• removal of material from a place

• break down of material in its place

• physical break down of material

Mass movement is the...

• downslope movement of material due to gravity

• large scale movement of material

• movement of material solely because of the loss of friction

Wave power (or energy) is determined mostly by what?

• Wave length

• Wave period

• Wave height

• Wave frequency

At what point does a wave break?

• When the water depth is less than 1.3x the wave height

• When the water depth is less than 1.5x the wave height

• When the water depth is less than the wave height

How are waves formed?

• The transfer of kinetic energy from the wind due to friction with the sea surface

• The transfer of potential energy from the wind due to friction with the sea surface

• The transfer of energy from the wind due to friction with the sea surface

What two factors does the type of breaking wave depend upon?

• Water depth

• Gradient of the shore

• Wave length

Which of the following waves is most likely on a gently sloping sea bed?

• Spilling

• Plunging

• Surging

Which of the following waves is most likely to be destructive?

• Spilling

• Plunging

• Surging

In a constructive wave...

• the swash is greater than the backwash

• the swash is equal to the backwash

• the swash is less than the backwash

What kind of waves will do more work in a coastal environment (erode / transport)?

• High energy waves

• Low energy waves