Engineering & Construction (3.03 Part B) Key Terms

Front

Casing

Back

Fabric used to enclose drawstrings or elastic, made at waistlines, sleeve edges, necklines, and hemlines. Two types: Self-casing & Applied Casings.

Front

Centered Zipper

Back

Baste the area where the zipper will be attached. Center the zipper along the baste. Use a zipper foot to sew the zipper down one side, across the actual zipper, and up the other side.

Front

Clipping

Back

Means to make tiny clips or snips in the seam allowance every ¼ “ to ½ “. On an inward curve, use the point of the scissors to clip within 1/8 inch of the seam line or up to the staystitching line.

Front

Darts

Back

Triangular folds of fabric stitched to a point. Used as a shaping device to control fullness. Two basic types: single pointed and double pointed darts.

Front

Easing

Back

Used when two edges of fabric are slightly larger than the other. Should not cause visible gathers or pleats. Creates a smooth seam for set-in sleeves, joining shoulder seams, attaching waistbands, and extra fullness in hems.

Front

Fused Hem

Back

Considered a quick fix; used to temporarily hold a hem, e.g., dressing for work when you inadvertently pull out the hem of your pants and need a quick fix. Done with a fusible web.

Front

Fusible Interfacing

Back

Dots of dried glue that ‘melts’ when heat is applied to facings with the heat of the iron.

Front

Gathering

Back

Soft folds of fabric formed when a larger piece of fabric is sewn to a smaller piece. Used for puffed sleeves, gathered skirts.

Front

Grading

Back

For heavier fabrics or places with three layers of fabric, such as collars and cuffs. Always grade a seam allowance so that the widest seam allowance is next to the outside of the garment. Trim to a ¼ inch and then grade to 1/8 inch.

Front

Hook & Bar

Back

Straight eye (bar) & hook – used for waistbands on pants/skirts.