Wave Types Flashcard

Front

What are swells in oceanography?

Back

Swells are long, uniform waves that travel across the ocean, typically generated by distant storms.

Front

Where do swells typically travel from?

Back

Storm areas.

Front

What characterizes a swell?

Back

Uniform, symmetrical waves with long crests.

Front

What is the primary role of wind speed in wave energy?

Back

It increases wave energy.

Front

What type of wave behavior occurs when waves change direction as they enter shallow water?

Back

Refraction.

Front

What is the difference between a wave and a swell?

Back

Waves are short, choppy disturbances, while swells are longer, smoother waves.

Front

What factors influence wave height?

Back

Wind speed, duration of wind, and fetch (the distance over water that the wind blows).

Front

What is fetch in relation to wave formation?

Back

Fetch is the distance over which the wind blows across the water, affecting wave size.

Front

How does wave energy relate to wave height?

Back

Higher waves carry more energy than shorter waves.

Front

What happens to wave speed as waves approach the shore?

Back

Wave speed decreases as waves enter shallower water.